Kai Lukoff

Now for a long overdue post on the wonders of the Wuyishan (武夷山市) city and landscape, in China’s southern coastal Fujian province. See photos. My travel companions were one stout Englishman James D. Pennington (Jimmy) and one imaginary companion, Peter Hessler, a The New Yorker journalist and author of two insightful, non-fiction accounts of life in China, Rivertown and Oracle Bones. On the journey, I read the former while Jimmy read the latter, so Petey was always with us, oft-quoted, and his observations compared to ours. We love you Petey!

The trip was a tale of mistaken assumptions. Points 1 & 2 are clearly my own damn fault:

1. it is rural! (it was not)
2. the weather is warm! (it was not)
3. the people are warm! (unfortunately, several who we encountered were notably not)

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I stole the title of this post from an excellent article on “Why Chinese Is So Damn Hard” by David Moser. My favorite excerpt:

Having never studied a day of Spanish, I could read a Spanish newspaper more easily than I could a Chinese newspaper after more than three years of studying Chinese.

I can confirm Moser’s thesis: Chinese is damn hard. Personally, my spoken is far ahead of my written, which suits me. In business or foreign policy, I might often speak Chinese, sometimes read, but rarely type, and almost never hand-write characters. My Chinese friends likewise painstakingly learned the latter (they had class six-days-a-week from 6am-10pm during junior and high school), but they seldomly hand-write nowadays: my Luxembourgian friend Chloe corrected my Chinese language partner Anna on the character for monkey the other day.

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The quirks that make China so frustrating at first, but endearing in the end:

Food in China
Like me, Chinese don’t eat to live; they live to eat. It’s easily the #1 topic of discussion in China.

Banquets
I was a bit fearful of the food upon first arriving, as most of my previous dining experience in China was with banquet food through FACES. I hate banquet food: you have no control over the dishes that appear and they try to impress with specialties, which are often bizarre bits of seafood or meat. One particular banquet featured ocean snails, Hakuna Matata-style grubs, roasted sparrows, tripe, and liver. Fortunately, simple food, like 鱼香茄子（fish-sauce eggplant, with ample MSG, of course) is much nicer. I still hate the breakfasts, but am contented with my daily oatmeal, yogurt, and banana.

A Personal Relationship
The Chinese are close to their food. Take this KFC ad: “Handsome Chinese youth stands in idyllic green pasture massaging a brown cow. In the next scene, he’s sitting in front of the pasture on a bale of hay, biting into a delicious beef-stuffed pancake, and grinning into the camera.” This would never fly in America! We try and distance meat as far away as possible from the animal—even our animal terms (cow, pig, etc.) are often distinct from meat terms (beef, pork, etc.), which is not the case in Chinese. A favorite Chinese eating tactic—which I have yet to become comfortable with—is to take a large piece of meat, fat, gristle, and bone into the mouth and suck the bone clean. Continue reading →

Though “The Life of Kai” blog has been on hold, my life (and camera) has been busy. I’m happy in Shanghai. I elected to turn down a fellowship at the German Bundestag (Parliament) in order to stay here for the full school year. So, I will be in Shanghai through July ’09 at least, which means you should all come visit (I’m looking at you Lukoff family and Mr. Josh Harder…).

Before I talk Shanghai, a short aside on the political and economic situation in the US of A: I’m greatly cheered by the political turn of events. Evan Osnos of The New Yorker commented that Obama has restored a certain nobility to political involvement, and I have many close friends who worked day and night for Obama, among them Jacob Becklund and Michael Baer. The New York Times article, “300,000 Apply for 3,300 Obama Jobs,” says it all. Finally, check out the gem (below) about the departing administration, “Die Bush Krieger: Ende der Vorstellung,” which translates as, “The Bush Warriors: End of the Show.” It shows the cover of Der Spiegel magazine from 2002 (left), alongside the 2008 edition (right). Fitting. Credit to my friend Stefan Angrick.

The economic turn of events, however, is depressing. US consumer spending will probably not return to its pre-crash levels for another 10-20 years. Fortunately, China, with its massive rainy day fund of foreign exchange reserves, faces a much softer fall. The Economist Intelligence Unit predicts China’s GDP to grow by 7.5% for the next two years, as opposed to a contraction (negative growth) for the US, EU, and Japan.

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Shanghai carries two nicknames. Paris of the East for its glamor, tree-lined alleys, and image of China’s Westernized future. Whore of the Orient because it was teeming with brothels under Western occupation in the 1800s and early 1900s. Today, the latter name reflects the city’s insecure identity. Driven by Shanghai’s nouveau riche, it tries to outwest the West—it’s NY/Paris/London, “with Chinese characteristics,” which is the term the Chinese append when they borrow from the West, and then endeavor to make it theirs.

Shanghai is supersized: at 20+ million inhabitants it’s China’s largest city (no small feat). Each year, an estimated 1 million additional migrant workers arrive. The city already boasts massive Western-style shopping malls, 6 stories tall, replete with the Rolexes, Armanis, Ferraris, and, most importantly, Cold Stones. Still, construction is booming. Every hour or so you hear what sounds like distant machine-gun fire; it turns out to be collapsing bamboo scaffolding after they finish with construction, which is what they use for all but the tallest buildings. I love the fella in the photo on the top left leaning on his shovel, seemingly saying, “Yeah, I single-handedly built this city. So what?”

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